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How were you introduced to the A.T.
Through
a book, or as you crossed the trail on the highway,
everyone who knows about the A.T. found out about it
somehow. If you had a first time A.T. experience that
was unusual, and that had a lasting impression on you
that is worth telling, this is the the place. Send us
an email relaying the story with all the great details
to: trailtales@atmuseum.org
A
story of how I was introduced to the A.T. by
Larry Maurice
It
was the fall of 1986, I was 12 years old. My father
decided that it was time for me to experience the trail,
and so we set off one Saturday morning to the lowest
section of trail on South Mountain, a stones throw north
of Harper's Ferry, WV. My first blue blaze a view of
the Shenandoah and Potomac rivers merging in the gap
of the North and South section of the A.T, via Weaverton
cliffs. A few miles in to camp and back out the next
day is all it took. Since then, I have hiked different
sections of the trail in Virginia, West Virginia, Maryland,
and Pennsylvania almost every fall with my father, or
anyone else who will take the time to enjoy what millions
of people miss out on every day. I don't know what it
is that draws me in, and I really don't care. What matters
to me is that I go, and leave only footprints, and take
only memories. Memories that I will never forget.
"My
First Backpacking Trip to the A.T."
by Kent Wilson (Tent-n-Kent)
My
freshman year in College I had a friend named Michael
High who loved backpacking. He was from Lancaster ,
PA and had participated in many short trips along the
Appalachian Trail. That year he was always talking backpacking
in our Adventure Club circle of friends while I was
focusing on Rock Climbing , Caving and Canoeing. But
he was continually selling me on backpacking with his
tales of having met long distance hikers on the A.T.
or letting me read from his collection of Colin Fletcher
books, he owned all three.
So after coming back from Christmas break , soon talk
began to settle mostly on the topic of Spring Break.
Even though the cool thing to do is...go to the Beach
, right...? Mike had little trouble convincing six of
us to go backpacking with him on the A.T. I think for
me it had something to do with my secretly holding naively
to the fantasy I might likely help a female ward off
hypothermia by climbing in to a sleeping bag with her
wearing only , You know , Just a Bra and Panties. This
was practically standard to all First Aid texts back
in the Seventies regarding treatment of Hypothermia...committed
to memory probably more by us Backpacking College boys
than it needed to be...Ahh well , I never got to try
it out.
Like other groups still to this day , when deciding
to go do a piece of the A.T. , " So where else
would You go ??? ", we decided to go for the Smokies.
My Gear consisted of a borrowed Boyscout Daypack for
light weight food stuffs and some dry extra clothing
, a Woolrich shirt and the ubiquitous for those days,
white cotton " THERMAL " underwear...picked
out for me carefully by my mother of course. I also
had a wool " Took " for my head and a Vinyl
Backpackers Poncho. At the last minute I bought an Orange
plastic " Tube Tent "...was it at the Sugarlands
Visitor Center?...I no longer remember. On my waist
a borrowed Army ammo belt with my L-1 Pouch which was
also my Cave Exploring Pack on one hip with another
L-1 opposite that , which was also borrowed from the
Loaner of the Ammo belt. This was the configuration
which bore the heavyweight items, water in My two Plastic
Army canteens...( Yes I was too Young to go by a Couple
of Years , but I am another of the Many examples of
the one good thing to develop out of the Vietnam War
, good cheap surplus Camping Gear )...a heavyduty Pre
Leatherman Multi-tool with spoon and fork and 6 of my
favorite flavors of Campbells' soup. Standard , 8 ounces
soup 4ounces tincan , condensed of course , which played
an integral part in our first night out camping.
With limited knowledge of how to go Backpacking in the
Smokies and a little more knowledge of how to get along
on a road trip , seven young Anderson College church
kids set out into the " Great Wide Open" in
Wanda's big Buick Station Wagon , before dawn. That
Car should have had a name...it wasn't fancy but we
weren't much crowded, maybe if we had gone on another
road trip it might have been christened something cool
, it should have been anyway. Just before noon we found
ourselves looking at the Smokies twenty miles distant
with easily twenty thousand big station wagons, V W
vans , bugs , greyhounds ,schoolbuses and quite a few
less Big Rigs than we see nowadays stretched across
that twenty miles. We were all making about 10 to 15
m.p.h. , progressing towards Davenport Gap. Five miles
and two hours later , we were relieved to see only maybe
fivethousand vehicles in front of us as we sped up to
30 m.p.h. around the outskirts of Sevierville Tennessee
now. The other fifteen thousand machines were headed
to Florida , the only place to be back in those days.
Even though we had to put up with traffic aplenty ,
I'm still glad to have been part of the change away
from that trend. Of course nowadays good weather and
vacation time off bring even more horrendous crowds
down there.
We arrived shortly after dark at Cades Cove Campground.
We were promptly informed by a Ranger that the Campground
was full , we dare not set up camp here by the side
walk and the woods...And no we could NOT just walk out
in to the Back Country until we had gone back to the
Sugarlands tomorrow and obtained Backcountry permits.
He stopped short of telling us he might ticket our car
, but there were parking spots everywhere. I bet he
thought he should have as he drove away. We got all
the gear out , laid down the seats for the two tall
girls to lay in back. The two rather short girls layed
their rolls out on the hood of the car , ate a snack
and went promptly to sleep , commenting how surprising
long the warmth lasted from that big block engine beneath
them. Us guys , stayed up awhile playing cards at a
picnic table after supper with the Campground skunks
roaming around beneath our feet like everytime I' ve
been to Cades Cove Campground. I had Chicken Noodle
soup undiluted so as to concentrate the calories and
salt for the exertion I was going to face tomorrow headed
up Anthony creek trail. Soon after the fellas sort of
went to sleeping sitting up in the front seat of the
Buick. The packs and food sacks of course , were on
top of the roof of the station wagon. Of course this
was very risky, before Leave No Trace had come along
to tell us how stupid this kind of behavior was, but
hey , technically we were obeying the Ranger and had
not set up an illegal campsite. And we of course , had
the sacrificial short girls up on the hood not far from
the food on the roof , so the five of us in side had
nothing to worry about.
My meal of undiluted Campbells soup caused a gut to
rumbling and an exertion I had better not describe much
further , not very long after I went to sleep a bit.
It required me to ask my friend Dave Riggs to give up
his spot by the passenger door , which he did not mind.
Ah well, up and away at 3 a.m. from Anderson , all day
on the road , up all night with the trots in Cades Cove
, what a perfect warm up for a 8 mile walk with a 4,
000 feet climb to the A.T. In the morning our trip planner
Mike went with the car owner Wanda to Sugarlands to
get permits for all 7 of us to hike together a twenty
mile circuit out and back to Cades Cove. They came back
with , just like today an Autocratic mandate with our
group together 2 out of 5 nights in the shelters only,
no communing out with the bears. I had walked around
the visitor area and picnic ground enjoying myself more
and more as the queasiness tapered off. Hiking up the
Anthony creek trailhead in those days with the physique
I possessed at the time by no means kicked my butt but
the events of the past 30 hours issued me a significant
handicap. We got to Spence field rested awhile , awaiting
this supposed crowd of strangers to walk in to claim
their allotted space. We then walked the girls 2 miles
down to Russel field where the King decreed they must
stay , made plans for the next day and returned to Spence
field. I had Vegetable Beef soup , diluted , this time.
By dark , some more hikers wanting to go the distance
had rolled in and my gear envy was beginning to climb
with the crescendoing roar of the SVEA 123's and the
lone Optimus 8-R. I was also beginning to worry about
my meager 2 cans of Sterno to cook with, Up here in
the Cold mountains it had taken longer to warm my soup.
My friend Mike High knew all the right questions to
ask an " end to ender " We wanted to talk
more but they all just laid down and went to sleep.
Just then a Scout group came in with 10 people for 6
permits and one of the group headed to Maine spoke up
and told them to be quiet but we made room for them
, soon all were asleep. Not long after midnight the
Soup attacked me again...
After my fourth trip outside in the night worrying about
Bears taking advantage of me in my weakened state ,
the birds began to chirp , I also realized my tissue
supply was dwindling. About this time the longtimers
began to get up , one of them asked me if I was alright.
'When I told him my situation and that all I had to
get by on was soup for supper, he dug in to his firstaid
kit and gave me 3 pills called Pere-goric. " Take
2 now... , 1 later. Oh man , I didn't have to take a
squat again until I got back down to Cades Cove...like
a week almost.
The long distance hikers of course made a quick , impressive
, display of efficiency as they cooked breakfast , packed
up and began to leave. Mike admired one of their backpacks,
a Trailwise frame pack ( the same model as Colin Fletcher's
). One of them advised him he could get a custom , thickly
padded waistbelt he was seeking , at the outfitters
in Gatlinburg.
Which he promptly did before we left for Indiana. Standing
on the sidewalk outside of the shop after Mike retrofitted
it easily to his Alpine Designs pack , several of us
tried it out and agreed it improved the pack fabulously.
Mike wished he could have made the change before the
trip. I was also flattered by one of the end to enders
taking note of my Dunham boots , which was the only
decent gear item along with me that was actually mine.
My parents had scrimped and saved to buy them for my
Christmas gift a couple of years prior to this. After
a high school friend got his that's all I would talk
about , these huge clodhoppers called Dunham "Continental
Tyroleans " Not a single pair of tennis shoes in
the shelter that morning....
Well we left for Russell field soon to discover a note
from the rest of the party saying they had gone ahead
to Mollies ridge shelter where we actually had permission
to all stay together. Arriving at Mollies ridge we found
another note saying they had decided to go on to Birch
Gap irregardless of what the permit said. This was kind
of untypical , girls bending the rules , not the rebellious
college boys. We actually set out in a huff with just
canteens on our belts , to go catch up and "give
them a piece of our minds " but turned back after
a mile or so returning to Mollies ridge just in time
to meet the people we were destined to spend the night
with there
It was a group of seven college students from New York
city , 6 guys and one girl. They promptly started lightening
their packs of mass quantities of glass bottles of ,
I suppose about 10 different kinds of Alcholic beverages.
We being the church college types we were, we politely
turned down an offer to join the party at that end of
the shelter as it began to grow raucous. And after dark
the lighter weight party substance began to make it's
presence known, soon filling up the shelter with the
aroma of something besides firewood a burning. We were
kept up late in spite of the fact it was growing colder
, but we had our revenge the following morning...It
would seem that when you have your pack full of glass
bottles , there isn't much room for stuff like ...extra
clothing and insulated jackets , etc. The Ice storm
that had blew in during the night transformed them into
some real unhappy campers. The young woman who was a
giggly party girl the night before was now complaining
loudly about what a wretched idea this all was and could
they at least pile another of their sleeping bags onto
her there in the middle of the group where it was warmest
but not to touch her because somebody's hands were cold
as ice.
The three of us were in the upper bunks with our heads
to the wall where a little of the heat from the fireplace
was trapped beneath the tin roof actually, but not much
, it was indeed , very memorably cold. I was well off
as long as I stayed burrowed inside of my Fathers excellent
down sleeping bag he had bought for himself to use on
a couple of hunting trips to Wyoming with his friends.
I had an inspiration , I reversed my position up there
on the bunk , easily rotating around on my knees , still
inside the sleeping bag. I reached down over the edge
of the bunk and got my oatmeal and tea out of my knapsack
hanging just below on a nail. Soon I was eating a warm
cooked meal and drinking hot tea without leaving my
sleeping bag. I spilled a little bit of my oatmeal.
In brushing it off my bag it disappeared through the
wire mesh of the bunk without my being able to see where
it went. The 3 of us up there had decided to get up
when one of the jerks who kept us awake all night stumbled
over from the pile of party campers looking for some
more " Pot " in his backpack to warm up with
, I guess. It was sort of like a scene out of a Cheech
and Chong movie when I heard this guy call out to his
group..." Oh Wow, Man" , " Some mouse
puked up on my pack, Man..." I looked over the
edge of the bunk and saw this hung over city kid trying
to brush off my oatmeal crumbs with a 2 foot long twig
from the wood pile. He probably feared he could get
something awful from a mouse that was so sick it puked
, I guess. I burrowed back under my sleeping bag hood
, not to get warm, but to hide myself away. I had tears
in my eyes, I wanted to laugh so hard but couldn't
I have repeated this part of the story many times in
the company of camping friends, it really happened like
that , without embellishment from me, the famous mouse
that puked story. I wander if that guy is still talking
about " This one time in the Smokies , a mouse
puked on my pack, I swear it really did...." Maybe
some day on a visit to New York...ya never know. Well
anyway we met up later that morning at Birch Gap with
the two short girls. They were very worried because
the taller ones still wanted to hike even more after
they changed our plans to all stay together at Mollies
ridge. They thought they would hike down to the dam
at Fontana and return but they had not. It had been
only slightly less cold there , though it was now a
beautiful day , we began to worry what to do , staring
at the empty bed rolls of our friends. But just then
they came over the hill into Birch gap , red cheeked
and dying of thirst. We sat amazed listening to how
they also had experienced a miserable night. It was
almost dark by the time they got down to Fontana dam.
The visitor center was closing up and they were told
there was no camping nearby allowed. ( This was quite
a few years before the " Fontana Hilton" shelter
was built...) A rather bossy ranger told them they were
going to have to tough it until morning light. There
they sat on a concrete bench , hugging each other and
shivering. A person came back and said he would let
them inside the pump house now that his boss was gone
home. They were quite warm the rest of the night but
, without food and sleeping pads they really didn't
sleep at all. They were suitably humbled by the experience,
especially after we showed them the map which had been
with us. Not knowing how huge Fontana lake is , they
had mistakenly assumed it was just a mile or so away.
One of this pair now had a sore knee.
We reached a decision that Dave and Mike would stay
up there for two more nights in the backcountry while
I would go back down into Cades Cove from Mollies ridge
with the 4 girls. Because of the slow pace necessary
for our friend with sore knee , we did not reach the
car back at the campground by sundown like we were hoping
to. We bivouacked for the night in one of the historic
old settlers cabins on the loop road. The Park service
probably has high tech sensors in there nowadays to
prevent such freeloading. We would certainly have been
in trouble if caught but totally enjoyed this unique
stealth camping site.
The following day was a bonanza of a blue sky day ,
even our friend with the sore knee , Antonina Ivanova
loved hiking the loop road back to our car. We called
her Toni , she was the prettiest of the group and very
athletic from having grown up hiking in the mountains
of Bulgaria or someplace like that. I forget where exactly
, if only I had wrote a journal of this back then ,
I would enjoy reading it now rather than just rememberiing
it. Although it's fairly obvious I remember it pretty
well too. I must confess I was a little smitten by her
beauty and her foreign exchange student mystique.
We returned in time to tool around the park in the station
wagon for most of the day , we found plenty of available
camping spots in the primitive campground at Elkmont.
The following day we saw some more sites , waterfalls
etc. , then drove back to Cades Cove to await Dave and
Mike. I finally had a return to normal bowel function
there in the bathroom...without further medical intervention.
This was a concern by now , the fourth day. What a blackmail
picture they might have taken, if we had brought cameras.
But no one did and I had kept it a secret from my female
companions, so they didn't notice the smile on my face
afterwards. Sundown arrived , the skunks began to roam
and the same Ranger came by to ask us our plans for
the night. He told us we had better get back over to
Elkmont before they closed the registration office.
Apparently they had a problem with people sneaking in
and out without paying for all those privileges , or
he had a perception that this was a problem. We must
have looked like the type , I guess. We were running
out of money and Cades Cove ( a Class A campground at
the time ) was again booked full.
The next morning we got up early, picked up a quick
cheap breakfast at the campstore and rushed over to
the Cove to look for Dave and Mike. There they sat on
the side walk in the parking lot with their backpacks
, looking a little pissed off , as we rolled into a
space. They were a little sore with us until we compared
notes. The same ranger that made us leave , circled
by in the parking lot soon after they showed up there
looking for us. He made no mention to Dave and Mike
that we were over at Elkmont. He just launched into
them about they better not dare sneak into the campground
or set up in the woods margin around the parking lot.
He sat there for an hour with the car running , listening
to his radio. He gave them one more threat with a fine
, drove off but returned twice to check on them. They
spent the night sitting on their foam pads , leaning
their heads against their packs , so their last night
was even more uncomfortable than setting up in a Car
seat. It dawned on us there in the middle days of April
1978 , that not everybody thought Backpacking College
kids were cool.
We managed to not let that get us down. We drove over
to Gatlinburg did some free stuff , watched Mike shop
for his fancy waistbelt and headed home to Indiana.
We had fun talking and listening to the radio. Nobody
got laid , just a backpacking trip with a weird start
and finish. Oh yeah , and a mouse puked and two long-legged
girls found out you can't hike down to Fontana dam and
return by dark unless you start out real early.
Mike and Dave did a few more weekenders with me by semesters
end that year , our freshman year. Mike transferred
to Marquette for a pre law batchelors track. I stayed
in touch with him by phone and letter quite a bit the
next year hoping to get together another fun backpacking
trip. I left the protective little bubble of a christian
college myself the next year for Indiana University
in my hometown of Bloomington Indiana. On a visit to
Anderson the fall semester of 1980 I was shocked to
learn from Mikes' younger sister that he had died ,
most tragically , on the operating table. He had a large
tumor in his abdomen , it's only hint was indigestion
and an increasing girth during the spring semester of
our sophomore year. If I had seen him I might have made
a crack about his fancy waistbelt on his backpack. But
nobody knew until the week he died , she said.
Having lost this friend , so soon after this wonderful
trip in the midst of our days of youth , each day an
adventure...it put's a tinge on my memories I' d rather
not have there along with the image I have of a guy
scraping oatmeal off a pack. And the picture I have
in my mind of Toni stretching there in the front seat
next to me leaning herself over the back of the seat
, smiling and talking to the gang in the back seat.
Well maybe , just maybe , if Mike hadn't died and we
had never met that Control Freak Ranger , this would
be a better A.T. Trailtale. But I am grateful for having
been introduced to the Appalachian Trail , it so enriches
my life.
In memory of Mike High...
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Last Modified 4/28/05
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